I am not a brilliant bike mechanic. I can do basic stuff like fix flat tyres, replace broken spokes, true wheels and fix a broken chain. If there is a big or tricky problem I take my bike to a shop.
The idea behind this page is to provide information for other bikers on the best bike shops and bike mechanics that I have met in Latin America (This is not meant to be a definitive list by any means. Bikes, bike mechanics and bike shops are everywhere in Latin America.).
I try and avoid problems by keeping my bike as clean as possible, especially the chain. When I clean the chain I clean each link individually with a wet cloth (and ideally washing up liquid). A bit like flossing your teeth or using rosary beads.
But no matter how good your bike is or how well you clean it something is going to happen. You also will need to change the chain and rear cassette of your bike every so often. How often? A question that is keenly debated in campsites and hostels the entire length of the Gringo Trail.
The basic rule of thumb that I am going on is that you need to change your chain and rear cassette every 5,000 kilometres. I have so far changed my chain and cassette six times in: Salta northern Argentina; Arequipa, southern Peru; Cali, Colombia; Xalapa, Mexico; Portland, Oregon US and Whitehorse, Canada (chain only). The distance I travelled between Arequipa and Salta was about 2,500 odd kilometres and maybe I probably could have got away with only changing the chain. However I didn't think it was worth takng the risk as there was a good mechanic and the opportunity to buy Shimano parts in Arequipa.
Having said that with the exception of Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala and Bolivia Shimano component are widely available in most countries in Latin America.
(Lots of the riders that I have met in the last few months are using Rohloff internal hub gears. Expensive German system, I think about 750 quid. It looks very good though and it seems to be reliable. I would probably use it if I go on another big trip.)
Salta, northern Argentina, I had heard about bike mechanics Rene and Hector from Dimitri and Betty a Belgian/French couple who had toured through South America that I stayed with in Chile.
They gave my bike a full service, the frame was completely stripped and everything was cleaned. Plus changed my chain and rear cassette. Alain and I spent a brilliant day with Rene, Hector, Oswaldo and David chatting and eating empanadas whilst they fixed our bikes. They are extremely friendly, if you are cycling through Salta I really would recommend that you drop in and see them (and say hello from me).
They don't have an email or telephone. Their address is Pje David Lascano 133, San Felipe y Santiago Al 1500, 4400 Salta. The easiest way to find their shop is to go to the biggest bike shop in Salta, Manresa, 905 Corrientes and ask them to draw you a map.
Image: Hector, Rene, David, Oswaldo and Alain, Salta, Argentina
The Carterra Austral is a cruel but beautiful unpaved road in the south of Chile. After I had my frame welded twice on the Carterra Austral I decided to replace my rear panniers with a Bob trailer (with suspension). I ordered it from Intercycles in Santiago, Chile (www.cannondale.cl).
You don't have to be Sherlock Holmes to work out from their email address that Intercycles is a Cannondale dealer. They have basically all the stuff that you would expect to find in a good bike shop in the UK (and the prices are about the same too). I called them well in advance in order to give them plenty of time to order my Bob (I also emailed Bob in the US and called back a few times to check to quell my paranoia in order to make sure they really had ordered it and it was going to be there when I arrived in Santiago). There was a helpful bloke there called Fabian (ginger bloke on the left) who spoke reasonable English which was quite useful.
Coyhaique is about halfway along the Carterra Austral. The best bike shop here is called Figon. Can't remember the address. The equipment and parts didn't look brilliant but the mechanics seemed ok. Some friends of mine, an English couple called Liam and Claire, broke their panniers on the Carterra Austral, and had new panniers made for them in Coyhaique. They couldn't remember the exact address but Figon is probably the best place to start asking questions.
If you do need a welder on the southern part of Carterra Austral. Victor the mechanic in the small village of Puerto Tranquilo did a really good job on my frame.
Image: Intercycles, Santiago Chile
Didn't have many problems in Bolivia.
The plastic part inside the attachment that mounts my Ortlieb handlebar bag to my handlebar broke. In Potosi, Bolivia a man called Zacarrius Vargas made me two new metal parts for about 5 quid. I went to see him and they were ready the next day was really impressed by the quality of the work. When I met him he looked at me calmly and said "Are you going to Alaska?" in the same neutral tone of voice that you would expect someone to use when they say "Are you going to the shops?" so I expect he has dealt with quite a few bearded gringos just showing up on his doorstep. He doesn't have a shop as such and there is no sign on his door, he lives on a street called Enrique Finot, behind the San Clemente church near the bus station. I found out about him from the baker who runs the Casa de Ciclistas in Potosi.
The best bike shop in Bolivia is meant to be Gravity, a Kona dealer in La Paz (www.gravitybolivia.com). They organise the "World'd most dangerous road" trip (which I didn't do). Although I didn't go to La Paz I have heard from a couple of riders that you can get hold of good parts/equipment from them.
In Arequipa, southern Peru. Olger helped me out with a few things, including a much appreciated Specialized prosthetic saddle. He has a good selection of parts and equipment (for bicycles).
His shop is just a couple of blocks from the main plaza, Villalva 414-Cercado . If you want to contact him in advance the email address to use is mario-ortiz@terra.com.pe.
Image: Olger and my bike in his shop, Arequipa August 2006
In Trujillo in northern Peru. Lucho is a cycling institution. He has been looking after cycle tourists for 15 years now in his Casa de Ciclistas. He is a good bike mechanic and many people get there bike fixed here, wait for spare parts to arrive, recover from illness etc. Address Av Santa 347 Trujillo Peru, got to the Plaza de Armas take Calle Pizzaro for 6 blocks and Av Santa is near Avendid España and Avendid Amazonas. Email casmistadperu@yahoo.es Website www.geocities.com/casadeciclistasperutrujillo
Image: Lucho
Rulin helped me out after I crashed my bike in Pacasmayo, northern Peru. He has a small shop with a dirt floor near the market. He mainly fixes bikes he doesn´t sell bikes. Just about every town or village has a shop like this. He does sell small stuff like inner tubes and he got on a bus and went to the next big town and bought me a rear mechanism, which apparently is authentic Shimano. He literally hammered and twisted my bike back into shape and changed the ball bearings in my forks and regreased my front forks. Address Jose Olaya no 26, Email: elaguila6@hotmail.com, website: www.elaguila.tk
Image: Rulin
Fortunately not many problems in Ecuador. Alfonso had a look at my headset in Riobamba, southern Ecuador. If I had needed a bigger job doing I would definitely have had no hesitation about asking Alfonso to do it. He has a good workshop at the back of his house, a room full of cycling trophies and is a bike mechanic for the regional cycling team. Address Orozco and Avendida La Prensa (Calle La Georgina) Telephone 2965333 Mobile 097703913.
(I didn´t go to Quito or Guayaquil but I did pick up a card for a company called Bikestop which has shops in both of these cities website: www.bikestopecuador.com.)
Image: Alfonso
Cycling is really popular in Colombia. As a result everytown in Colombia will have decent bike shop.
Had my bike fully serviced in Cali including new Shimano chain and rear cassette. Also got the frame resprayed as it was getting pretty scratched. Jet-Set Ciclo-Servicio Technico, Fabio, Jonathan and pollo did a good job for a very reasonable price (about 40 quid). My bike was also ready a day earlier than they said it would have been. Adrres Calle 9 No 14-18 San Bosco Cali. Telephone 6806454
Image: Fabio, Jonathan and Pollo
Ronan fiddled with my gears a bit in Pereira and gave me some free bike oil. Nice bloke despite the fact that he wears a Man Utd cap. Shop is right in the main plaza in the centre of Pereira Carrera 7a 13-34 Tel 334 2160.
Image: Ronan
Also bought some Michellin tyres at quite a good bike shop in Medellin. Bicicletas Raul Mesa Almacen Laureles Carrera 73 No C1-34 Medellin Telephone 413 63 47, 412 52 93, 412 44 34 Email braulmesa3@une.net.co
Decided to get a new headset fitted in Panama City. Spent a nice morning talking to Mango, one of the mechanics at Rali, the biggest bike shop in Panama, via España. Also picked up a bottle of bicycle oil, they have quite a good selection of parts and accessories.
Image: Mango
No problems in Costa Rica. Think that if you had a big problem the best and most obvious thing to do would be to head to San Jose to get it sorted. My Footprint guidebook recommends Cycle Quiros, Apartado 1366, Pavas, 300 metres west of US Embassy. Apparently the Quiros brothers have been repairing bikes for 20 years. Also have read that Ciclo Los Ases, Rodolfo Soto Rivera, Apartado 1591-1002 San Jose, Costa Rica 100 metres east of Gimansio Nacional Av 10 is good too.
Richard is a bike mechanic in Granada. Tried to leave Granada on a Sunday morning. Rolled only a few blocks from the hotel when my pedals started freewheeling in both directions. An interesting but inefficient experience. Asked around and found Richard working in a corner of a small courtyard, containing a chaotic heap of bike wheels and parts that must have gradually grown over the decades and also home to several green parrots. Richard dropped what he was doing and spent 2 hours on a Sunday afternoon cleaning, hammering and greasing my rachet. After he finished he just said give me what you think is right. This is always a difficult question as do not wish to be seen as underpaying, but he seemed really happy with 100 corderos. Not very much, about 3 pounds, I think. Richard Urbina address is, De La Gaviota 1/2 Cuadra al Norte, Granada.
Image: Richard
Riding up a hill to the Honduran town of Yuscaran my bike started making unpleasant creaking noises. Couldn´t work out why until the following morning found a large crack in the drop bar of my frame. Thirty minutes later had my bike welded. Didn´t even have time to really think about what to do. Was walking along a cobbled road and Greta, a German lady from Berlin, walking her two dogs, helped me find Danilo a welder. Danilo promptly welded the frame and when I asked for how much he would he explained that the average daily wage in Honduras is 5US dollars and asked for about 70 pence. I gave him 1 pound 25. He seemed really happy with this and asked me if I would like to have brunch with him. I readilly agreed and was given a very substantial plate of beans and tortillas. Over our meal Danilo enquired whether I would like to stay on his farm for a bit and whether I was Roman Catholic. Got a bit paranoid, probably unreasonably, at this point that he was trying to fix me up with his daughter. Explained that unfortunately my schedule was quite tight and pushed on. So far, touchwood, weld still holding up ok. Thank you very much Danilo (and Greta).
Image: Danilo
No problems in Guatemala.
The Footprint guide for Mexico and Central America lists several bike shops that it describes as being good in Mexico City. I didn't go there but it might be an option if you had a really big problem.
When I was in Xalapa, Victor, the owner of the hotel I was staying and former triathlete recommended that I go and see Jaime to get my bike serviced. He did a really good job and if you need your bike looking at when passing through Xalapa I would recommend paying him a visit. His full name and address is Señor Jaime Gomez, Calle Guillermno Prieto, Esq Eduardo Coronel col 2 de Abril. He also has another shop close by which has a lot of good stuff in it, equipment and spare parts etc.
Image: Jaime
My last act in Latin America before crossing the border is to visit Jesus. He is wearing a sweatshirt with the slogan "Fear of the Lord is the beginning of Wisdom." stitched on the back. I ask him if he will help me fix my wobbling back wheel and he takes a look at it straightaway. Spends about 40 minutes working on my bike, fits a new cone on the rear wheel and charges me 50 pesos. About 2 pounds fifty. During this time he mentions that he likes, or at least is aware of, Liverpool and the Bee Gees. So if you a Scally with a passion for disco and need some bicycle repairs done in the border town of Agua Prieta Jesus is your man. Address Ciclo Norte Ave 18 Carterra a Janos No 2060 (telephone 338-15-33).
Image: Jesus Raul
Friends that I met in Mexico, Randy and Nancy recommended that I visit Ajo bikes in Tuscon, Arizona. So I sent them an email to let them know I was coming and then spent a morning with them whilst they helped me sort out my bike. Ended up buying a new pair of forks, headset and stem riser to give me a more comfortable riding position. Plus my trailer now has a hookworm tyre full of monkey snot so hopefully will get far fewer punctures. Thanks very much Brad, Tracey and Relph for all your help. There is no photograph of them not because they are wierd looking people but I just forgot to take my camera with me when I visited their shop. If you are passing through Tuscon on tour I would recommend that you visit them. Their address Ajo Bikes 1301 East Ajo Way Suite 117, Tuscon AZ 85713 (North East Corner of Ajo @ Benson Highway i.e. south of Tuscon). Website www.ajobikes.com.
Image: Ajo Bikes
Greater love has no man that to give up his rim to another. In Page, Arizona my rear wheel bowed gracefully out of the tour. With exquisite timing it chose to explode a few hundred yards from the hostel I was hoping to stay at and the only bike shop within miles. Vance didn't have a downhill rim in stock that would fit my bike so he took the one off his own mountain bike and fitted it for me. Thank you very much Vance. Maybe Vane's mellow mood can be explained by the fact that he is now listening to bob Dylan after going through a very intense period of heavy death metal. Lakeside Bikes 12 Lake Powell Blvd Page/Lake Powell AZ 86040 tel 928 645 2266 email vance@lakesidebikes.net
Image: Vance
A couple of riders I met on the West Coast recommended Elliot's shop in Newport on the West Coast. I didn't really need anything doing to my bike at this point but stopped in for a chat. Elliot was very friendly and gave me some good advice. Bike Newport 152 NE 6th Street Newport OR 97365 tel 541 265 9917 www.bikenewport.net
Image: Elliot
Kevin and Nate worked on my bike and Bob trailer in Portland, Oregon. I asked a couple of bikers which was the best bike shop in Portland and they all recommended River City Bicycles 706 SE MLK Blvd, Portland Oregon 97214 Tel 503 233 5973 (www.rivercitybicycles.com). I also picked up a front pannier rack (Cold Springs) made by Old Man Mountain, a company based in Santa Barbara here. Have been after these for some time, they look the strongest things that I have seen so far for front wheel pannier bags and am hoping they will get me through Canada.
Image: Kevin and Nate
Kevin at Fairhaven Bike & Mountain Sport is a singlespeed addict and had the chainring that I needed and also changed the ball bearings on my Bob. I promised to make Kevin famous. I am not sure if I will but thank you very much. Fairhaven Bike & Mountain Sport tel 360 733 4433 1108, 11th Street Bellingham WA 98225 www.fairhavenbike.com.
Image: Kevin
Solomon and Merc helped me out when I picked up a new rear wheel in Cycle Logic in Prince George. Cycle Logic 1443 3rd Avenue Prince George BC tel 250 614 7223. www.cyclelogicbikes.com.
Image: Solomon and Merc
Alain was very proud of his Swiss made rear wheel Hugi hub that he picked up in Nicaragua. As he freewheeled past you it would make a lovely little uniform chattering sound that seemed to encapsulate the concept of precision engineering. Well it did until 50km before the end of the Stewart Cassiar highway. Then it started to make a different sound and stopped working completely. Nothing we could do about this in the middle of nowhere. So Alain sticks out his hand. The very first truck gives him a lift to the junction. (far far easier than hailing a cab in London). At the junction we spy Tomek with two mountain bikes on top of his car. We ask if we can buy one of his back wheels. He replies that we can but his wheels cost 1500 dollars. This line of enquiry quickly peters out. It turns out however that Tomek is a bike mechanic and he takes a look at Alain's rear wheel. In the rain and with only a few tools he converts Alain's broken freewheel into a functioning fixed wheel using a ring off my keyring to replace a spring. Very impressive stuff. This solution worked for the next 4 days and 500 kilometers. Thank you very very much indeed Tomek.
Image: Tomek
Jonah is the mechanic who works at icyclesport in Whitehorse. He checked out my bike for the final stretch and sorted Alain out with a new wheel. Jonah Clark fixxieking@hotmail.com Icyclesport 9002 Quartz Road tel (867)668 7599.
Image: Jonah
Got a new wheel at the Bicycle Shop, 1035 West Northern Lights Blvd Anchorage, AK 99503. Forgot to take my camera so no picture of Dave the mechanic who helped me who is also an experienced tourist.(www.alaskabicycleshop.com) Tel 907 272 5219.
Image: The Bike Shop
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